Fiery Innovation at Mission Chinese Food

"Pop-up restaurant." This is precisely what Mission Chinese Food has come to be defined by its initial conception. In my own words, I would describe it as a frame narrative. A restaurant within a restaurant. This year it was voted 2nd as one of America's Best New Restaurants in Bon Appétit.

It all started with the food truck Mission Street Food, which was run by San Francisco couple Anthony Mynit and Karen Leibowitz. They initially used Lung Shan Chinese Restaurant on Thursdays and Saturdays to sell their duck confit tacos and foie gras sundaes, and as of last June, their progressive talents took over the establishment and its cuisine. Their friend and chef of Mission Chinese Food is Danny Bowien, a long-haired bespectacled fellow who is Korean-born but American-raised. He's definitely in his late 20s or early 30s, and exudes an alternative somewhat hipster-like style. As is most of their clientele's demographic but for you anti-hipsters out there, don't lose faith in what this place has to offer just yet. Fall in line, because well, you're going to have to.


The restaurant's interior exudes remnants of its dingy former establishment, but is vibrantly and eclectically decorated. So is the scent upon walking in. The waft of Szechuan spices can either sprinkle the room with anticipation or apprehension. There is a dragon costume/chandelier sprawled along the ceiling, which charms up the place. The elder staff from the Lung Shan Chinese still mill about, hand you your menus and drink orders, whereas the younger and vibrant waitstaff serve the main dishes. It's good to know there seems to be no hard feelings. 

Let's discuss the food now, shall we?

Salt Cod Fried Rice (pictured left, $10) consists of escolar confit, chinese sausage, egg, and scallion. It's a tasty twist to Yang Chow Fried Rice, with a complementary salty fishy aspect. Next to it is the (partially devoured, I apologize, but for good reason) Cold Dan Dan Noodles ($8), something I'd describe as "icy-hot," given its spicy bite. It has sesame, pine nut, cucumber, and snap pea.

The Open Faced "'Chinese' BBQ" Sandwich ($12) is a hearty, succulent compilation of smoked beef brisket, pork trotter, and hot link that is served with pickles, white bread, and smoked cola BBQ sauce. A knife is stabbed through the heart of it. In other words, they've already given you the first step in savoring this delight. 




Proceed with caution with the Ma Po Tofu ($11), given its ingredients: bean curd, ground kurobuta pork shoulder, Szechuan peppercorn, chili oil, and steamed rice. I have a pretty high tolerance for spicy food, but it's another story -- and quite a tragic one at that -- when you really want to keep eating but you can't help but hold back the tears brought on by this dish's delectable heat. 

Kung Pao Chicken may as well retire. This fiery spin on the classic, Kung Pao Pastrami ($11), consists of chili, celery, potato, and roasted peanut. I found this to be a genius rendition, and again fought a wonderful fire in my mouth to savor this dish. But you'll come to find that this is a rewarding aspect of Szechuan cuisine, especially if you make something of it new. 


I absolutely loved the Thrice Cooked Bacon ($10.50). What looks like water chestnuts are in fact sliced rice cakes, much to my merriment, because I am big fan of how their texture paired so well with the tofu skin, bitter melon, scallion, black bean,chili oil, and thick bacon slices. The flavor is a great contrast between the comforting, black bean sauce and the hot chili oil. 


On the day that I dined there with my family for my sister's birthday, Danny Bowien was walking around the restaurant quite a bit. He was posing for a photographer from a German travel magazine, as he presented some of his renowned dishes by staging them on a table close to the front of the house, readying for their photo shoot. I'm pretty sure the photographer made him hold a Buddha statue of some sort for effect? Either way, it shows how this "accidental restaurant" is gaining worldwide acclaim. I hope that this will bring some just, gastronomical tourism to San Francisco. 


Location: Lung Shan Restaurant, 2234 Mission Street, San Francisco 
Open 11:30am-3pm/5pm-10:30pm, except Wednesdays